That night we had dinner with friends who flew in at a restaurant near the Trevi Fountain, tossing a few coins on the way hoping to return again someday. As for the entrance, this is where we almost got tripped up. The highlight was filming the Midnight Mass at the Vatican on Christmas Eve — which happened to be Pope John … At about 9:00pm, all the lights were turned on inside the Basilica. What can we do on Christmas day, assuming all restaurants, etc. On the way, we stopped at one of the many Bufalo Mozzarella farms. The mass started at 9:30pm. 2021. I faxed in my request in March and a few weeks later I received what looks like a hand typed letter notifying me I had five tickets reserved for me and with instructions on how to pick them up. Like Rick say's it's worth an hour. The days before Christmas are a different story however, with rates less than half of the week following. La Vigilia, the traditional Christmas Eve dinner, calls for all the trimmings - here in Rome, that's lots of veggies… and a nice big female eel! It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. We had been to Sorrento during tourist season and the size of the crowds on this night were similar but the atmosphere was completely different. A word of advice, don't rent a car and drive back into the city. My Account . American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! Sacred music and prayer infuse this tranquil landscape. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. For centuries this lively square, Piazza Navona, has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market that stays busy until Epiphany in January. If you can get tickets, I would highly recommend it. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. While providing a bright spot in this grandma's day, the child experiences the joy of giving. If I were visiting again, I would plan to arrive at 5:00pm and spend 3 hours just walking around. Created with Sketch. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over the rooftops filling children's stockings with candy or… coal. Jump to bottom. We spent the next few days taking a cooking class, seeing sights we missed the last time we visited and buying keepsakes. The off season hours of operation for various sites are pretty well documented but when it comes to the holidays, you have to check the opening and closing time carefully. We took an Uber from the station (and all around Rome for that matter) and the drive to the apartment was full of sights and sounds of Christmas. Contributor. It must have been quite a party that night! On Epiphany, Befana the witch brings candy…or coal. Everywhere we went there were nativity scenes. During a busy season that sometimes feels overwhelming, village life can be refreshingly simple. And Europeans don't wrap things up on December 25th. We then proceeded to walk the site. Being in Italy over Christmas and New Year’s was a fantastic experience. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. What should normally have taken about 20 minutes to drive took over an hour. Culture Thanks! I had made lunch reservations which was very smart as everyone who didn't was scrambling to find a restaurant. This time our itinerary would take us to places we hadn't been such as Ercolano, Salerno, Paestum and a small town where my great grandparents were from, San Potito Ultra. As it happended, there was a restaurant about a block from our apartment (Osteria dell' Anima) that was still open that invited us in as we walked past. Some people in the standing room area knew this was going to happen and started heading over there before the service ended. Join Rick Steves for a colorful, musical celebration of Christmas across Europe. It was like getting crushed at a rock concert. Only 20% has been excavated. I had requested tickets (by fax) about 9 months before on the chance we might go to Rome. $20.00. The vast basilica was packed, the pope seemed radiant, and our cameraman put our viewers right in the front pew. If your objective is to drive to Naples, Paestum, Salerno, Pompeii, Vesuvius and/or Amalfi, there may be more convenient (albeit less interesting) places to stay. This visit was no exception. The temperatures were a little warmer than expected throughout the trip (with the exception of Assisi, it was freezing) and it only rained once on Christmas Eve morning. Our stress-free Italy vacations package together small groups, great guides, central hotels, all sightseeing — and memories to last a lifetime. Browse Rick's best Italy tours and vacation packages: Best of Rome in 7 Days Tour . Google the name for information. We made a quick visit to Santa Maria in Laterna and headed back to the apartment to get ready for midnight mass (which is actually at 9:30pm). 12 New Shows 2019-2020. For centuries, pilgrims have hiked from all over Christendom to this great city. Possibly the best meal I had in Italy. There was some local festival going on the weekend after Christmas and New Year’s. As with other locations, it was clear of tourists and felt very genuine. ? Rick gives brief mention to these but I would say if you have time, definitely schedule a trip. Most bits of information I could find were sporadic trip reports of individual accounts on the internet. When I was researching the trip, there were not a lot of sources of information on traveling in Italy over Christmas. We arrived in Salerno around 3:00pm and this was a little early. People continued to arrive for the next hour or so until all the seats were filed. Explore Italy! The drive hugs the outer walls of Paestum and gives you an idea of just how big the site is. We did an afternoon tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere and took a rest. Having just been to Greece, I can say in comparison the ruins are far better preserved. We'd be south of Naples before Christmas, in Rome over Christmas, Siena in between and Florence for New Years. People had already started arriving in the square to watch the service on the large monitors. We had purchase food at the local grocery store earlier. Join Rick and his team of travel-savvy teachers every Monday night on Zoom as we explore Europe (and beyond) together. There were a few local activities happening that we stumbled onto. My wife showed up around 8:30pm and said the security line was still long. It all began nine month earlier with the idea of spending Christmas in Italy. The directions say to go to the gate on the left side of the Vatican. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. European Christmas Gift Pack. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Italy. (photo: Rick Steves) I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air, stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccinos in corner cafés, and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. We stayed in an apartment a block off the Piazza Navona which was a perfect location. The highlight is the Tomb of the Diver. We have a friend whose family owns a Christmas decorations distributorship near Venice. At the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, tables have replaced pews and the poor are enjoying a feast prepared and served by the community. European Christmas Music CD. It's not nearly a confined and claustrophobic as the warning suggest. We had little trouble getting dinner reservations (except for the best restaurants). It had a few more tourists but was still uncrowded and welcoming. For the most part, the drive is highway until the last five miles or so. Bottles, trash, debris everywhere. Rick's Travel Blog. Posted by rnacramp on 01/21/15 06:58 AM. Rick Steves' European Christmas. It turned out to be a great stop. This special mailbox mysteriously appears each Christmas…. Our trip began by flying into Naples, renting a car, and driving to Sorrento. For anyone contemplating visiting Italy over the holidays I would say do not hesitate. Our daughter is spending the year studying abroad in Florence, Italy and we have plans to visit her over Christmas break. (photo: Rick Steves) Families enjoy Piazza Navona's Christmas market. We had a fun late night dinner in a small local restaurant where the owner was also the waiter, chef and dish washer. It was exactly the experience you want when traveling. Does anybody have experiences and suggestions as to what goes on in Italy at this time? If you need to flag this entry as abusive, send us an email. It was a good history lesson for the kids who really liked the coffee mugs of the "fat" St Francis. On Christmas Eve in this simple cloister they'll recreate the town of Bethlehem on that holiest of nights. Merry Christmas! I have to say, it was quite exciting. The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th through January 6th, that’s Epiphany, the day the Three Kings finally delivered the gifts. I had read about how nice it was to visit Pompeii and Ercolano off season and I can say it is really nice. The next day we took a drive from Sorrento to my ancestor's hometown of San Potito Ultra and stopped in Salerno on the way home. We had an excellent English speaking tour guide from Long Island, NY give the tour. We stayed in Sorrento because we love Sorrento but as a base to visit Salerno and Paestum, it wasn't the perfect location. I had booked the Vatican scavi tour (the tour under the Vatican where you see the bones of St Peter) for 3:30pm and I also needed to pick up tickets for Christmas Eve mass. Rick Steves. We have 4 weeks. This colorful companion book to the "Rick Steves' European Christmas" TV special takes you on a wintertime wander among local holiday celebrations in England, Norway, France, Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. ‎Show Rick Steves' European Christmas (video), Ep Part 5: Italy - 8 Dec 2006 Domes and ancient obelisks still serve as markers lacing together relics and sacred stops, including the tomb of St. Peter — marked by the greatest dome anywhere. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. And through the ages pilgrims have stopped here at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. There was a line of Christmas market stalls that line Lungomare Trieste along the shoreline that spans about 15 blocks. We stopped at Tenuta Vannulo, the one where they supposedly massage the cows and have them sleep on mattresses. When we finally reached Sorrento, there was a big celebration happening. As it happened, it was a Sunday evening and all the locals were out celebrating. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Christmas in Italy. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. Two blocks in from the shoreline is the main drag. A tip for anyone who ends up standing. They were a little disappointed to find out he didn't really look like that. The suggestions I had gotten about the Christmas Eve service was that unless you are willing to show up at least six hours early, don't expect to get a seat close enough to see the Pope during the service. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. Our Rick Steves Tour in Italy will end on Dec. 24 in Rome. The letter alone is quite the keepsake. St. Francis of Assisi is credited with assembling the first manger scene in 1223. Thanks again for this detailed and well-written report. Just follow the main highway into the center of town and keep driving until you’re near the water. If you are visiting Paestum and can wake up early enough, I would try the tour. This post was published on the now-closed HuffPost Contributor platform. 12/21/2015 01:41pm EST | Updated December 21, 2016. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. We ended up waiting a bit for the town to come alive. We followed the GPS in the car and ended up on the south side of the main strip where the entrance and museum are located. Christianity This was a special exhibit that was open on Christmas Day featuring 100 of them. A few tips for anyone thinking of going to Christmas Eve service. It could very well be the best trip you ever make. Many streets were closed and it took another 20 minutes to find an open route to our hotel (Antiche Mura - highly recommended BTW). Christmas After our visit to Ercolano, we drove to Sorrento. On our way out, we passed by Pizza della Signoria. From my best guess about 1000 people had already been let through to the second gate and were waiting to be let into the Basilica. We started the day with a visit to the Capitoline Museums and Trajan's Market. We happened upon a special treat at Civita di Bagnoregio. This was a weekend night and the concierge said that it is crowded on weekends but not weekdays. Find everything you need for packing — and planning your dream trip to Europe. I was surprised by the last part of the drive. Then comes the Feast of St. Nicholas is on December 6th, Santa Lucia day is on the 13th. The food was good but his personality really made the night. I had researched that Salerno had a great Christmas light display (Luci d' Artista) and a Christmas market along the shoreline. Local and authentic. We would start in the south and end in the north, flying into Naples and out of Florence. (Men throwing cake and speaking in Italian.). The next morning I woke up and rented a car at Roma Termini and drive back to the apartment to pick up the family for our trip to Orvieto then Siena. My Account . The nativity is at the entrance on the left as you face the altar. The idea is to toss the panforte, the local fruitcake, close to the edge of the table without having it slide off. will be closed? I haven't been to southern Italy yet, and you included some great tips. Can't do Christmas yet, as my parents claim they're too old to travel to Europe again, so we'll spend that time with them as long as we can. I didn't know what Christmas was like in Italy but just the idea of being in Europe and near the Vatican on Christmas seemed interesting. We were not asked for ID for our kids. At the east end of the shoreline is a very convenient parking lot. We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. Religion The square was not crowded during the day. I asked the concierge what was happening and he said it was a celebration following a marathon of some sort that happens the weekend before Christmas. When the time came, my son and I left our apartment at 6:00pm for the Vatican. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. Shop Rick's Travel Store. As such the hotel availability is tight and rates are high. Contributors control their own work and posted freely to our site. Steves with tourists in Italy. The next day we drove to Assisi. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. While the art and architecture is amazing, the tourist crowds, the crass souvenir shops and groups of wannabe teenage girls walking around everywhere almost ruin the experience for me. Look for signs for Piazza Concordia. It really is a special time to be there. In this case, we rented a car and drove south stopping at Ercolano. It sounds as if it was an amazing time for all your family! The tickets are free. We caught the Frecciarossa to Rome, arriving around 8:30pm. After an hour, The Vatican security started to motion that they were about to let people though the first gate. They're delivering another Christmas treat — panettone - a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus — to older folks who have no family nearby. They had a life size photo in its place. We spent the rest of the day enjoying Rome. We had to drive around the site to the west. At that point the crowd really started to push. I had also read about Florence and how it was a good location for New Years. Dress warm as St Peters is cold during the service. More info about travel to Switzerland: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/switzerland High in Switzerland, the mighty Alps seem to shout the glory of God. I saw a lot of discussion on the internet regarding the age requirement. The Streets were filled with a market of local crafts and the town was filled with local people. It's a joyful occasion and by all accounts those doing the giving feel as blessed as those they feed. Posted by Kristin (Hutchinson, MN, USA) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM. It was standing room only. It takes the reader on a journey across Europe to reveal the food, decorations, songs, and celebrations of its many countries. I was led to believe that almost everything would be closed Christmas morning in Rome but that was not the case. Outside of Rome, in villages in regions such as Tuscany, Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic. Contemporary In the past we had taken the Circumvesuviana from Naples. I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. It was a good diversion on a day where most things were closed. Enjoy all of Rick Steves' TV shows on DVD, Travel as a Political Act as an 8-CD audio book, music from Rick Steves' European Christmas on CD, and special DVD/book gift sets! Italy. We rented a car this time instead of using the Circumvesuviana because we needed the freedom of travel a car provides. Crowded with tourists. Jump to bottom. Again, reservations were a must as all the restaurants were full. With that information, I began to assemble my itinerary. This is home of the Vatican City… headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church and some of Europe's most sacred Christmas traditions. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. We arrived at Paestum around noon and went immediately to the museum. I didn't make dinner reservations as most restaurants close by 11:00pm and I wasn't sure what time we'd get out. Being in Ercolano and feeling like you have the place to yourself really gives you a different, more immersive experience. Rick Steves' European Christmas gives viewers a look at sacred, intimate family Christmas traditions. 4.5 out of 5 stars 210. Thinking of travelling to Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples. At the west end a few block in is the Villa Comunale di Salerno Park where the Luci d' Artista Christmas lights display is. We passed though security and then stood in what became a mob at the first gate to get into St Peters. The tour entrance is the opposite side of the square from the public entrance to St Peters and has its own security check with no line. A tip for anyone visiting Paestum. If you really want to good seat for the service, you need to get there 5-6 hours before. Perhaps even stay the night. I'm glad I did as the tickets go quick and it was a truly phenomenal experience. There were nativity scenes made of macaroni, paper, wood blocks, some very elaborate. We were in Pompeii in June a few years back. We'd been to the Sorrento area before and visited Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. The spirit of charity is especially alive in this neighborhood, which has come together for a special holiday meal. The tour was excellent and well worth it. It was 90 degrees and by noon, the site was quite crowded. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. There was not a lot of coordinated information and certainly not anything like the organization in the Rick Steves books specific to the holidays. I understand why Rick is so down on San Gimignano. We were able to climb the tower with no wait. For anyone thinking of visiting Sorrento over Christmas, be aware that the week between Christmas and New Year’s is very popular among locals. In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions . I hadn't thought about the ZTL when I booked the car. Like Ercolano, it felt like we were the only ones there. The other piece of advice I got was to stay near the Vatican as after the service, taxis are few and far between. It's a reminder that through the ages Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful as they gathered by fires to warm themselves and await the arrival of Christmas. We had a wonderful Christmas Eve dinner and went to bed that night having experienced something we'll remember forever. 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